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Thread: n-Arrow3b build

  1. #21
    Join Date
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    Default Re: n-Arrow3b build

    NOTE TO PHIL...........(AND OTHERS)

    If/when your IP address changes, you may get a "Banned" notification. Email me with your current IP address, screen name, and email address.

    PHIL - Check your email to verify password and see if you now have access.

    Dick

  2. #22
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    Basel, Switzerland
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    Default Re: n-Arrow3b build

    Hi Dick
    I'm back on the forum from my home computer.
    Thanks for doing whatever you did to 'fix it'
    Phil

  3. #23
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    Default Re: n-Arrow3b build

    Just changed your IP address in your data profile,

    Glad I could help.

    Dick
    Dick Lemke
    Minnesota, USA
    AMYA member

    "The F-48 Multihull Class - Remarkable for its rarity - unmatched in originality"

  4. #24
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    Default Re: n-Arrow3b build

    Update to a previous thread about a bulb...............

    I finally broke down and purchased a small digital scale. I must be the only person who never had one - always running to post office or UPS store to get weights.

    Anyway - as I suggested, I purchased a replacement keel and bulb for my nARROW and tonight weighed both. -----

    Keel and bulb attached = 677 grams
    Hull only - 100 grams (this is epoxy coated, balsa strip, all internal templates removed - but no decking yet.)

    Hope this helps for comparison.

    Dick
    Last edited by Dick Lemke; 01-15-2016 at 07:26 PM. Reason: spelling

  5. #25
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    Johannesburg
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    Default Re: n-Arrow3b build

    That is incredibly close to the plans. I must look for a local distributor


    I attempted a clever way of doing a keelfin.
    It was atrocious lol. So I'll do the fin and rudder as per the ModelYachting RG65 article me thinks.

    I have started sanding the deck line on the hull to accept the flatboats for the mould, so things are happening but quite slowly. So far the only issue has been that I didn't epoxy the inside with enough around the frames. The sanding shook one loose on the side so I'll re-epoxy with 5min 2part to make it a good solid attachment

  6. #26
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    Nov 2010
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    Johannesburg
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    Default Re: n-Arrow3b build

    Believe it or not I am making progress - very slowly.
    Here is a pic of the hull with lots of sanding done and the beginnings of a deck.

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    Last edited by Naptalene; 02-12-2016 at 07:59 AM. Reason: Fixing bad phone uploads

  7. #27
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    Default Re: n-Arrow3b build

    Looking pretty good. Keep on working toward the finish.

    Dick

  8. #28
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    Nov 2010
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    Default Re: n-Arrow3b build

    "THIS WAS A DISASTER - DON'T USE THESE LINES. I'll post up correct ones when I get it correct"
    So people don't waste their time on these.


    The bulb....

    I kept whacking numbers into the bulb calculator and came up with this shape.
    It gave the lowest wetted surface which is what I thought I was aiming for.
    But I have since read some threads (RCGroups IOM or Marblehead IIRC) where guys mentioned that although you want it to have a low wetted area, you also want a streamlined shape as opposed to a wider, blunt shape.

    So I'm just running with this for now. I was hoping to build 2 boats, so If the mood moves me I'll try build a different shaped bulb for that one and have a drag race (Get it..... drag race..drag...... I know, it was bad)

    Bulb PDF for printout and the settings I whacked into the calculator.

    63-0xx_2-AllViews.pdf
    NACA630xx2.txt

    If you use this PDF double check the scale when printing it out. For some reason it kept printing out too big so I had to adjust the scale.

    The balsa bits....
    I cut them from 2mm balsa which should be too thick, but i figured that it will be easier to grind off extra weight rather than add it.

    Click image for larger version

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    By preference I would like to do what I've seen in Claudio's build and cut lead sheets and glue the bits together, but I can't get lead sheet easily, so I would have to pour my own - which defeats the point of trying to avoid molten lead.

    So what I might try is this:
    I used a rasp to remove lead from a sinker on the Apsara I built. These lead shavings work out WAY cheaper than any leadshot I can find (sinker is R70 so that works out to $4.50 for 600g). So once I shape and build a plaster mold I'll try use those shavings and epoxy to build a bulb. I'll just need to be aware of spreading the shavings equally in the mould.

    If that fails, I'll have the 2 part mold to pour the molten lead anyway. I have done it once so I reckon I can avoid killing myself.

    Any input on any of this will be greatly appreciated.
    Last edited by Dick Lemke; 07-15-2016 at 01:35 PM. Reason: Added red portion of post by request of Naptalene 7/15/2016

  9. #29
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    Default Re: n-Arrow3b build

    If you have any firearm/hunting stores where you are ...... ask if they have any #9 lead shot (used to reload shotgun cartridges) for shooting "clays" (clay pigeons/disks thrown into the air) This is fine enough you can use epoxy to hold it all together. Around here a 25 lb bag goes for about $45.00 at a local outdoor shop.

    Dick

  10. #30
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    Jun 2012
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    Portland, Tennessee, USA
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    Default Re: n-Arrow3b build

    Just another example of how much help this forum can be!

    I have wanted to build a design that called for a 3.1-3.2 kg. bulb. Claudio’s idea for making a bulb with lead tape or foil sounded good, but I couldn’t find any lead tape available. I thought about making a mold and pouring a lead bulb but the thought of molten lead was less than appealing to my senses. In trying to buy a ready made bulb, the only one that was even close in weight was from a company in Europe. Not only was it a little over the required weight (requiring drilling holes or shaving off some weight with a rasp) but the cost for the shipping was more than the cost of the bulb.

    It never occurred to me to use lead shot with epoxy resin holding it together. It’s kind of ironic sense I do reload ammo for rifles and handguns. (Not for shotguns, though)

    I will give your idea a try and perhaps attempt building another, heretofore out of reach, larger sailboat.


    Thanks,

    Clark

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