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Thread: Pakinto Build

  1. #1

    Default Breaking Wind Boats Pakinto Build

    I used to race Marbleheads back in the late 80ís and 90ís. Then the class pretty much died and our club switched exclusively to EC12s, and I had no interest in them. I got out of sailing all together, big boats and little ones when my son was born 18 years ago. Then last year I started looking at the RG65 class. I liked it because the rule is very open, like the Marbleheads, but the boats are much cheaper and easier to manage. When I found out that the National Championships were going to be in Reston Virginia, an hour and a half away, I decided that I had to do it. After not sailing an RC boat for 18 years and not having an RG65, and the race being less than 2 months away, I realized I had to get moving. I talked to Craig of Breaking Wind Boats to get a Round Ranger hull and Eric Rosenbaum for a set of sails. The round Ranger is based on one of my all time favorite boats, the Roar Edge Marblehead. The Roar Edge is very narrow with low wetted surface. It is very quick in light air and very well mannered as the wind comes up. A fantastic all around boat. And the Round Ranger RG65 proved to be no different. The hull and bulb both arrived very quickly and looked great. I had never built a plastic boat before, but it seemed to make a lot of sense for the small size of an RG65, and I rapidly got the boat together, about a week before the race. My boat was definitely fast. Unfortunately, I was still a little rusty. But the race was a lot of fun and I was (re)hooked.
    So when Breaking Wind announced that they were coming out with a new boat, I immediately contacted Craig to get a hull from him. Since it is still somewhat in development, the only way I could get one now was to offer to do a build log. Well, Craig bit and here it is.
    Now, a racing boat is like a tennis racquet. It is a piece of sporting equipment. It should be as simple as possible. Everything that goes into it should be necessary, nothing extra. It should be built strong and reliable, but not overbuilt. Donít worry about aesthetics; if it is fast, it will look good. Try to fight the urge to put in a cool gadget or system. I have been down that road, and complicating a boat does not make it faster. It just makes it more complicated to sail and is another thing to break down. So, to sum it up, I am going to build this boat strong, simple and light. In other words, fast. OK, that may sound a little arrogant, but if you want a fast racing boat, that is what you do.

    http://breakingwindboats.com/
    Last edited by Gregg28; 05-09-2012 at 05:58 PM.
    1 Footy
    4 RG65s, 1 (perpetually) in planning
    2 Marbleheads
    1 J105

  2. #2

    Default Re: Pakinto Build

    The hulls arrived to day from Craig. They are very nicely molded and I saw no flaws or imperfections. The boat is called the Pikanto and was designed by Maximo specifically for Breaking Wind Boats. It is noticeably based on the current crop of IOMs. I immediately got started. First, I carefully trimmed off the excess material around the shear with a pair of scissors. I left about 1/8 to 1/4 inch to form a flange around the shear. This gives you a surface to glue the deck to as well as the curve in the plastic gives strength. Next I went around the shear and bent the flange down some to be parallel with the deck. I also trimmed the extra material around the deck down to about ľ”.
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    Last edited by Gregg28; 05-09-2012 at 08:31 PM.
    1 Footy
    4 RG65s, 1 (perpetually) in planning
    2 Marbleheads
    1 J105

  3. #3

    Default Re: Pakinto Build

    Are you going to follow the design drawing for the keel and rudder? Personally I was never a fan of swept back leading edges.
    Don

  4. #4

    Default Re: Pakinto Build

    Quote Originally Posted by Don Barker View Post
    Are you going to follow the design drawing for the keel and rudder? Personally I was never a fan of swept back leading edges.
    Don
    Hey Don. First off, I am using a straight vertical LE fin, akin to what Eric is now producing. Second, I am actually doing 2 boats. This one will be conventionally rigged, the other one swing rigged.
    1 Footy
    4 RG65s, 1 (perpetually) in planning
    2 Marbleheads
    1 J105

  5. #5

    Default Re: Pakinto Build

    The last time I ran simulations in XFlr, a straight vertical TE with a swept back LE fin performed better.

    All I did, was use the same foils, dimensions, etc., but just changed the planform.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Pakinto Build

    subscribed and watching! looks good so far! would I be correct in thinking that the round ranger hull i have (yet to start) is from the same guy?

  7. #7

    Default Re: Pakinto Build

    Quote Originally Posted by Beergnome View Post
    subscribed and watching! looks good so far! would I be correct in thinking that the round ranger hull i have (yet to start) is from the same guy?
    Yes. The build will be very much the same.
    1 Footy
    4 RG65s, 1 (perpetually) in planning
    2 Marbleheads
    1 J105

  8. #8

    Default Re: Pakinto Build

    I'm really looking forward to watching this build, hoping to learn some tricks from the pros.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Pakinto Build

    Cutting the slot for the fin is one of the most critical steps in making a fast boat. You want excellent alignment of the fin. However, if you do manage to cut the opening off center, donít worry, you can fix it by opening up the hole and aligning it when you put the trunk in. But if you get it right now it is easier and cleaner. First mark the leading and trailing edge locations of the fin on the bottom of the boat. The Pakinto fin leading edge is 345.5mm from the transom. Next I tape a piece of string down the center line of the hull. Make sure that you are in the center of the bow and stern and then you will have to eyeball it to make sure that the string runs straight down the center. Now draw a line down either side of the string from the fin leading edge location to the trailing edge location. Try not to touch the string or you will move it. Do the same for the rudder location. Remove the string. Now drill a hole at the fin leading edge location of about the same radius as the fin leading edge. Do the same at the trailing edge. Also drill the hole for the rudder shaft. Using a fresh X-Acto blade cut an approximate airfoil shape from the leading edge hole to the trailing edge hole. Test fit the fin, it should be to tight. Carefully sand the opening until the fin fits.
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    1 Footy
    4 RG65s, 1 (perpetually) in planning
    2 Marbleheads
    1 J105

  10. #10

    Default Re: Pakinto Build

    Clamp the file in a vice and make sure that it is vertical. Slide the hull and fin over the trunk and line the hull up on its waterline and laterally. Tack glue the trunk into the hull with a couple of drops of CA. DO NOT USE MORE THAN A COUPLE OF DROPS! Any more and you risk melting the hull and gluing the fin in permanently. Remove the hull and trunk from the fin. Scuff up the inside of the hull around the trunk and anywhere else that you will use epoxy. Epoxy has a hard time sticking to the smooth plastic. Mix a very thick paste of epoxy and micro balloons and build a fillet around the fin. Also, put a thick coat of epoxy/microballoons in the nose and then press a piece of balsa up in there. Set the hull aside to cure overnight.
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    Last edited by Gregg28; 05-14-2012 at 07:58 AM.
    1 Footy
    4 RG65s, 1 (perpetually) in planning
    2 Marbleheads
    1 J105

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