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Thread: Sloop of War Constellation c.1856 in 1/36 RC

  1. #11

    Default J Class Endeavour Build

    Hello,

    At the moment I am making the Cabins, for on the deck of the J Class Endeavour.
    The Main Cabin is rather involved, having a sliding Hatch on the roof, Doors with windows in and metal bars on all the windows !.
    The metal bars were to prevent the windows being broken, NO toughened glass in 1934!.
    There is one other sliding hatch on a smaller Cabin and other even smaller ones with Instruments on them.
    Endeavour was very advanced for its time, with dials for Strain Gauges and Wind direction, all very new at the time.
    All coming together, but very slowly, too slowly, the weather is getting nicer by the Day.

    Sailing Calls !!!.

    John.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Severna Park MD USA
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    143

    Default Re: J Class Endeavour Build

    The J's were real impressive boats. There was a restored one here on the Chesapeake back in the 70's that I did a day sail on. I forget which boat it was. You could get inside the boom! It was to most immense rig I ever saw.

    Speaking of big...

    Some stats on the Constellation model:

    Beam: 14-1/4"
    Length over the rig: 96"
    Width over the rig: 36"
    Length on deck: 61"
    Length between perpendiculars: 59-1/8"
    Draft (without ballast keel): 7-1/2"
    Height (floor to main truck without ballast keel): 65"

    I'm guessing the ballast keel will be about 4" deep and 1/2" to 3/4" thick. That'll make the depth about 11-1/2"
    Last edited by JerryTodd; 04-29-2009 at 03:42 PM. Reason: added info

  3. #13
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    Default Re: USS Constellation in 1/36

    Being out of town one weekend cut into production.

    Measurements and markings were made for placement of beams to hold the equipment tray and the mast steps. The mast steps will be made of live oak from the original vessel. There's a pair of bits forward of each mast, and these will also be made from Constellation live oak.

    A new set of quarter galleries was started. The old set, meant to be a form for the glass mold were not meant to be permanent. It so happens they were too deep, measured abeam that is.

    The new ones are meant to be permanent. they're framed in pine planed down to 1/8" and partially sheathed so far, in 1/16" basswood. They're also accurately dimensioned this time.

    The three badges on the quarter galleries and stern in the pics are print outs of the medallions the ship has had since 1854 (see my avatar).

    The last pic is me playing with one of the pics in MS Paint.
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  4. #14
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    Default New Quarter Galleries

    Some finish carpentry
    Utility knife blade Dremeled to scrape the molding's shape
    and the new quarter galleries with moldings almost complete.
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  5. #15
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    Mar 2009
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    Default As of 5/14/09

    Deck beams started going in around May 5th. Only those that partnered the masts, or delineated hatches for now.

    The hole was drilled for the rudder head, and a 17/32" (13.5mm) brass tube epoxied in place. The 1/2" (12.7mm) rudder head will fit nicely inside the tube.

    The beams that hold the servo decks and mast steps were epoxied in and the decks made from 5/16" (7.9mm) CDX (C side, D side, Xterior) plywood. Temporary mast steps helped check alignments.

    The mast steps are made of live oak from the original ship. This wood was cut as early as 1816 from 100-200 year old trees in coastal Georgia, and sat in stockpiles at Gosport Virginia until it was pulled to make frames for the Constellation in 1854. This is some OLD wood!

    A box was made to hold the battery. It will be mounted on the keel abaft the main mast and anchored to the tube for the ballast keel rod aft. A hook-n-loop strap will prevent the battery from hopping out.

    The rudder was scaled up from 1/60 plans to 1/36 and laid up on some card stock where the model's larger rudder profile was determined. This was cut from 1/4" (6.35mm) acrylic. Basswood veneers in the size of the scale rudder will be glued to either side for appearance sake.
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  6. #16
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    Mar 2009
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    Default Ballast Keel Bolts

    The veneers for the rudder has been canned and the scale part of the rudder will simply be painted on.

    The ballast keel will basically be a lead bar 52" long, 5/8" thick, and 4" tall, netting about 50 pounds. It will be attached under the models keel by two 5/16" stainless steel threaded rods. They will thread into stainless coupling nuts set into the top of the lead ballast keel. Stainless cap screws will thread in from the bottom of the keel.
    If the rods were attached to the ballast, I'd have to lower a 40-50 pound fully rigged model onto two 14" posts. This way, the rods stay in the hull. Sit the model on the ballast, thread down and tighten the rods into the ballast and that's it. If need be, the ballast can be removed by removing the 3.5" hex socket cap screws from the bottom of the ballast keel.

    To prevent leakage, the rods will be contained in PVC tubes that start flush with the bottom of the keel and run up flush with the spardeck. The tubes are 1/2" o.d. The forward rod will be at the galley hatch and will be hidden by a removable galley stack. The aft rod will be inside a skylight that's part of the aft hatch just forward of the ship's wheel.
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    Last edited by JerryTodd; 05-21-2009 at 09:24 AM. Reason: change in plan

  7. #17
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    Mar 2009
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    Default Re: USS Constellation in 1/36

    more pics
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  8. #18
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    Washington DC
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    Angry Re: USS Constellation in 1/36

    Now is the time to consider how you will/may transport your completed model. If you ever expect to have it transported by commercial air or ground you need to construct everything (especially the lead keel and its bolts and tubes) with the expectation that the model will be dropped 3 or 4 or more feet. Steel, Chapman & Hutchinson Ltd shipped one of their brigs to me (complete) and it arrived with the forward (clear plastic tube that made the forward keel bolt water tight) pretty smashed by the force of the internal battery being ripped off of its velcroed platform. After repairs in California it was again shipped to me and this time a daughter witnessed the express truck driver up end the box and drop it off the back of the truck. This time the force "only" twisted the head rails.

  9. #19
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    May 2009
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    Default Re: USS Constellation in 1/36

    When you get the chance it would be helpful if you would supply stability information such as the location of the centers of gravity and buoyancy (and an estimate of the righting moment) when the ship is heeled 90 degrees. Similarly, the center of the sail plan (all plain sail) fore and aft and above the upright waterline when the ship is upright.
    Until you provide further information we will assume that the ballast weighs 50 lbs and the rest of the ship also weighs 50 pounds.

  10. #20
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    Default Re: USS Constellation in 1/36

    I have estimated the righting moment as designed at 100 Lbs X 4 inches for a resultant of 400 inch pounds.
    Now if you lowered the ballast keel and turned it on its side and added one or two struts to lower it a foot you would get lots more righting moment. Or you could reduce the weight of the ballast keel and get about the same righting moment as you will get from your present plan and reduce the total weight of the ship ready to sail.
    Which is better depends on how much weight you want to lift when launching and recovering the model and the depth of your sailing area at the edges.

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